Module Construction-Waffle Type

            This is an article on how to build a lightweight, strong and easily transportable modular table. This table is built with an alternative construction method utilizing plywood instead of dimensional lumber. The idea for this type of module was derived from the Website of Craig Zeni, and the HO modular club that he belongs to. Additionally this module will have an easily removable and transportable scenery section. In this way the module can be transported in the club trailer and the scenery can stay with the club member. The scenery can be interchangeable with other modules built in the same style.

            Dimensional lumber is a good method of building a modular table however it has some drawbacks. First it’s difficult to find good quality, knot free and straight lumber at the local home center. Secondly it splits relatively easy if you’re not careful. Third it’s heavy. Plywood can easily be cut to the exact dimension required to replace the use of dimensional lumber. The resultant piece is straight, not warped, lighter and easier to custom make any size needed if you have a table saw.

            The table is 48” long and 24” deep, with a track height of 40”. Other than the wood assembly the table follows HOTrack specs. The tabletop and bottom are made from ¼” Luan plywood with ¾” plywood end pieces. I used ¾” birch veneer plywood due to it’s better quality and finish, and hand selected pre-cut 2’ by 4’ ¼” Luan Plywood.

The ¾” plywood is used for the ends in that the end pieces are used for clamping.

            The first cut is the ¾” plywood, cut 24” long, 4” high. Two pieces are needed.

I also rabbetted a ¼” groove around three sides of the end pieces for a better fit of the ¼” Luan top sheets I also put a groove in the center of the end piece for a better fit of the center joist. Next to be cut a three pieces of the Luan ply, 47” long. These pieces are glued and clamped into place onto the end pieces. Next lay a 2’ X47” sheet of Luan on this assembly and clamp into place. Mark on this piece where the joists are and make marks for the side joists at 8” intervals. This piece will be the bottom sheet. Make a “web” 2” wide around the markings except for the ends where the “web” will only be 1” to allow for easier clamping to the next module. Take the other 2’ X 47” sheet and glue/clamp to the end pieces with joists. Make sure all is square. Using a jigsaw cut out the openings in between the “web” markings. Once this is done add side joists to the table assembly. When finished you should have a box with 8 cells. Secure the bottom sheet over this and basically the table is completed.

            Once the basic table has been completed next comes leg installation, front Lexan installation and construction of the removable scenery module. There are a variety of acceptable methods to install legs on a module. Folding legs that stay attached to the module make transport and set up easy but have some mounting challenges. Legs that corner mount with nuts and bolts are easy to build but time consuming in the show setup/breakdown arena. Folding table leg assemblies are not acceptable in this the mounting on this type of table will require major additional structural strengthening and the legs do not fold flat. Using Lee Valley folding table leg hardware allows an easy method of leg mounting and setup.  An additional method will use 1 ¼” PVC pipe with a threaded insert in the end that will thread into an adapter mounted in each corner. This still requires some assembly at set up but minimal time is needed. The PVC legs are very light and strong and can be secured to the bottom of the module for transport between shows.

            If the Lee Valley hardware is used some consideration for this must be made before the bottom sheet is cut out. The “web” must be made larger in the area where the hardware will mount for a better leg fit and stronger mounting. Set out the hinges on the bottom sheet. One pair can be located 6” from the end and mounted with the leg parallel to the outer edge of the table. The second pair can be mounted 6” from the other end but inside the other pair. This will allow adding permanent braces to the leg pair that will not interfere with the other leg pair. Once the location of the hardware has been determined leave some additional “web” so that once the leg is extended it can rest on the bottom sheet. Also make some small pieces to fit of the ¾” ply to mount under the web and to allow for the hardware to be screwed into it.  The legs will be made of ¾” plywood cut onto strips 1 ¾” wide and 36” long. Glue and screw two pieces together. This will be the leg assembly. After the glue has dried bore a hole in the center of the bottom of each leg that is 4” deep using a 5/16” bit. Next mount a 1 ¾” by 1 ¾” piece of ¾” ply to make a bottom to the leg. Drill out the center and install a 5/16” tee-nut. Secure with one

#6 screw. Mount all four leg assembles to the hardware.  Check for proper operation. Next make and install some side braces for each leg pair. Mount in such a way that the brace does not interfere with the unfolding of the other leg pair. Once the legs are installed and unfolded set the table on the legs and verify adjustability of the table top height.